Friday, April 29, 2005
by Gordan Cameron

 

As PEZ-Fans know, we’re all about the experience, as long as it has the correct mix of riding, relaxation, excitement, and coolness. (A cold pint and beautiful lady doesn’t hurt either…) So, what better than to spend the day at the oldest Classic in the world?

 

Things are much calmer in Liege than at Flanders or even at the Amstel Gold Race. There is enthusiasm for cycling here in Wallonia, but it just doesn’t seem to grab the entire population the way the sport does in Flanders.

 

The vendors were out selling (mostly) Davitamon-Lotto and QuickStep stuff; the kids were lapping it up, aged 2 to 102.

There is one group here who do take things waaaaay more seriously, though. Thousands of Italians came north to work in the coal mines and steel factories between the wars, so when Rebellin and Bettini have won here recently, the victories have been received as enthusiastically as if Phillip Gilbert would win - Gilbert got the biggest cheer of the day, by an easy 587 decibels.

 

I had a quick chat with the Kurt-Asle Arvesen fan club, who’ve been very noticeable in the Ardennes in the last week. “Of the 3 races (Amstel, Fleche, LBL) this is his best one. The slopes are just right, so it suits him.”

The key question - can he win? “Aaaah, well - with Di Luca riding like this, it will be hard for everyone!” I wished them good luck, but not too much, as I’d visited MrBookmaker.com to stick the final Euros of my trip on David Extebarria in a bid to buy my final Frites of the trip.

 

The Dutch Rabobank supporters have come over the border in small but hardcore numbers, and their vocal antics at the sign-in, ensured they got themselves on TV. Rabobank better hope that Boogerd and Dekker do the same.

 

I spoke to one of the Basque kids and muddled a message to him that Etxebarria was “the man”‚ I think we are now blood brothers. The Basques were out in force, too, cheering every rider from their homeland. Things were so mellow at the start that if he was in shouting distance the rider would come over to shoot the breeze; if he was close enough he’d come over and brush the green, red and white Basque flag with his hands.

 

That was so cool to see - the delighted fan-rider interaction you just don’t see in the NFL or MLB, or even at le Tour. It is so bizarre to see the entire Credit Agricole team hop the crowd barriers and stroll through the spectators to get to the sign-in. Watching who’s chatting to who is fascinating too - Moreau and Voekler looking very matey, and an in-depth conversation between Voight and Vinokourov on the start line.

 

Once the racers had noodled off for their procession through some of Liege’s grimmer parts, and there are a few, we all jumped into the Velo Classic Tours battle bus and motored to the town of La Roche. Positioning ourselves on the Cote de La Roche, we were able to see the breakaway fly past, in the big ring. Stefan Wesemann had a chat with us in the morning, so it was cool to see him looking imperious.

 

After a few cakes and crepes, it was back in the bus and head for Houffalize, where we checked out the Cote de Saint Roch - the famous steep climb in so many posters. All human life was on the climb - kids, parents, grandparents, great-grandparents. In fact, judging by the look of them, probably a few people a couple of generations older than that, too!

 

The third vantage point was on the beautiful Cote des Rosiers - we were able to see the shattered peloton loom into view. Vinokourov was on the front and hammering. Di Luca was 50 metres back and in big trouble. Riders ghosted past for the next 10 minutes.

Off to Spa, finally, to catch the conclusion in a nicely smoky bar. Population roughly equally split between Belgians, Americans, Italians and Germans. Not much cheering from the Germans despite Voigt’s brave riding, but audible gasps of amazement as the cameras showed Vino powering up into Ans in the big ring!

Much disappointment when Vino edged Voigt for the win, but no disappointment for the PEZ-Crew who’d criss-crossed Wallonia to keep up with the race. If you only get one shot at chasing a race, you’d do much worse than chasing one of the Spring Classics.